Fontange: History and Key Facts

A fontange, or frelange, is a high headdress popular during the turn of the late 17th and early 18th centuries in Europe.

Technically, fontanges are only part of the assembly, referring to the decorative ribbon bows, linen, and lace, and the small linen cap beneath which support the frelange. The frelange was supported by a wire framework called a commode. Along with hair being worn in tight curls of hair worn at the top of the head and the frills described, making up the fontange's elaborate decoration were lappets draping the side of the face or back of the wearer's head.

Further, the term "fontange" is also used by some writers to refer to the associated hairstyle or the combination of headdress and hairstyle. The 'fontange coiffure' was a hairstyle where the front of the hair was worn curled and piled high above the forehead in front of the frelange, which was always higher than the hair. Sometimes the hairstyle was supported by a wire framework called a pallisade.

A surviving example of a frelange headdress with fontanges and commode in situ is that worn by the 1690s fashion doll Lady Clapham. In England, the style was popularly known as a 'top-knot', versions of which were worn by ladies of all ranks, from the Queen downwards to kitchen maids, making it an easy target for satire and criticism.

Source and attribution

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